"Plaid" is the Gaelic word for a blanket, and
that's just what the feilidh-mhor, or belted plaid, was -- a large
blanket that was gathered around your body and belted at the waist. This
garment, worn from the the end of the sixteenth century until the beginning of
the nineteenth, was the beginning of the kilt as we know it today.
Originally, it was made from two widths of hand
woven cloth (usually tartan). 25" to 30" wide, sewn together to make a plaid
that was 50" to 60" wide and anywhere from 3 to 6 yards long (with 4 to 5
yards being average).
In the past, before the advent of the "clan
tartan" system in the nineteenth century, Highlanders would have worn a tartan
based on availability and aesthetics. Today, tartans have a meaning, and
represent clans, families, districts, and even corporations! You may
choose to wear a belted plaid in any tartan you like.
We offer our belted plaids in over 500
different tartans, in a 10 oz worsted wool, twill weave. This is the
same material that is used for our light weight kilts. It's the "real
deal" so it has the authentic look and feel of Scottish wool. It's also
light weight enough that it is not uncomfortable to wear in warmer climates.
And at 59" wide, it is the perfect width for even the taller gentleman.
While you can wear any tartan of your choosing,
several tartans from our list have a history from the 18th century or earlier
and are especially suited to historic dress. You can email or call our
museum staff for assistance in selecting a tartan.
You can purchase your belted plaid one of three
ways. The first is simply to order the amount of cloth you wish (4 or 5
yards is recommended), untailored, hem the two cut ends yourself, and
viola! You have an authentic belted plaid. Normally, the plaid was
worn as a completely untailored garment, with the pleating arranged each time
you put it on. The cost for this is simply $60 per yard of cloth.
Alternately, you can also opt for one of our
two tailored options. Option A is to have a drawstring tacked onto the
kilt with small loops, at the rate of one every full repeat of the tartan, at
your waist line. The kilt would be worn by gathering the plaid with the
draw string, tying it around the waist, then putting a belt around the whole
thing to secure it. This is one easy way of donning the plaid without
assistance (or lying down on the muddy ground!). We know this method was
used as early as the late seventeenth century, possibly earlier. For
$350.00 you get a five yard belted plaid in any tartan from our 10 oz range,
with the "cut ends" hemmed, and drawstring cord sewn into place.
Option B is what we light-heartedly refer to as
the "cheater" method, although it was used by the military in the
late eighteenth century. That is to sew down the pleats in the kilt a
length of two inches. Three belt loops (keepers) are also added.
Your belt is run through the keepers to secure the kilt in place. This
option costs $425.00. All tailoring for both options will be done by
kilt maker and kilt historian Bob Martin.
Option A: $350.00
Belted plaid with drawstring cord.
Kilt length should be measured from the top of your hip bone to the desired
length of the kilt. You will be contacted if there are any questions
regarding your tartan or length measurement. (Please supply your height
in the "Optional Instructions" on your order).
Option B: $425.00
Belted plaid with pleats sewn in.
Kilt length should be measured from two inches above the top of your hip bone
(just above your naval) to the desired length of the kilt. Waist
measurement should be taken around your natural waist, just above the naval.
You will be contacted if there are any questions regarding your tartan or
length measurement. (Please supply your height and weight in the
"Optional Instructions" on your order).